I've been touring Asia for the last couple of weeks. The agenda has included Taiwan, Hong Kong and Shenzhen. For today's blog post, here are some pictures from Dim Sum Labs in Hong Kong.
First, the front door. Hong Kong is quite easy to navigate, as there is a very clean, modern subway system with excellent signage in English and Chinese. The metro ticket vending machines have one of the most intuitive user interface (UI) designs I have seen. You just touch the picture of the stop you wish to travel to, and the machine calculates the price and takes your money. Simplicity itself.
Anyway, Dim Sum Labs is located on Jervois Street, on Hong Kong Island. We followed some other hackers up to the 14th floor and were greeted by a nice etched brass sign:
Here is the space itself - it's rather snug bug contains several soldering stations, a Rep Rap 3D printer, a small CNC milling machine, and various other tools. Real estate is quite expensive in Hong Kong, so it's fortunate that they are able to be in a centrally-located place.
The meeting-in-progress was the tail-end of an introduction to Arduino class. Ricky and Shuyh from the Shanghai Hacker Space were next up, presenting their Lophilo Linux platform. Shuyh is below:
And here is the board. This thing is pretty cool - it's an Atmel ARM CPU with a tightly-coupled Altera FPGA for real-time embedded systems and Linux OS support. They hope to make it the new standard for open-source hardware/software projects for more advanced hardware projects.
That's all for now. Next post will be updates from the Shenzhen Electronics Market.
Arclight
20120617
20120616
23b Shop Mailing List
23b Shop Mailing List:
http://tinyurl.com/23bmail
Learn about upcoming events! Earthquakes, comets, parades! Potlucks!!
http://tinyurl.com/23bmail
Learn about upcoming events! Earthquakes, comets, parades! Potlucks!!
20120607
Shell Eco-Marathon
We sat down together, discussed their designs and started cranking handles. These kids have never operated shop equipment bigger than a drill press, so after a quick demonstration they were making chips on their own. After a few hours of work, we had some functional parts. An interesting part of their experience was speaking to the kids about awareness of our MacGyver'd design, which could very well fail catastrophically. While no one was injured, there were definitely some terminal illnesses with their design during the testing phase.
After going back to the drawing board, the kids returned with a desperate need to redesign, with two weeks to go until the competition. We discussed the failure mode of their design, realizing that we had not taken into account the accuracy needed to mount the bicycle cassette directly to the weed whacker output shaft. The easy solution was to scrap the entire drivetrain (along with all of their hard work!) and go to an electric design, avoiding all the messy steampunk power transmission parts. Sourcing a small electric motor from Harald's Meatspin Rock Tumbler, they quickly redesigned a successful drivetrain, and didn't even have to leave the building for the components.
New summer hours for machine shop
Good news, everyone!
I decided to take the summer off, and what better of a way to spend it than here at my favorite Hackerspace. That being said, there's generally someone here everyday after noon until close (sundown or later). Come by and brush up on your welding skills, or take some time and do some machining lessons from myself or one of our members. Need something fabricated? You can do it yourself, you can seek the guidance of others around you, or you can bribe me to do it for you with a worthy donation. We can handle everything from large steel frames to wooden arcade cabinets, retrofitting Ford hubs, building quadrotors, or network address teledildonics. You'll have to ask Dano about the last one, that's beyond my expertise.
Here's some of the parts we've machined lately:
These are 6061-T6 aluminum fittings for a phase-change beer chiller that was entered into the DEFCON Beverage Chilling Contraption Contest last year. Hearken and myself collaborated on this project together and came up with a surprisingly effective project. Turns out that aluminum performs very well under cryogenic conditions, so much so that NASA uses aluminum for liquid oxygen storage tanks. The wall thickness was .125" (3mm), it only needed to handle 175 psi, so we figured what the heck. It worked VERY well, chilling a beer from 100 F to 40 F in 4 seconds, as long as it took for the beer to travel down the tube into the cup.
Erik Burrows dropped by the shop with an interesting project a few weeks ago. He had the bright idea to adapt a camera tripod to work with hiking poles, a brilliant weight-saving adaptation. Instead of bulky, extendable legs on a normal tripod, he only needs to carry one extra pole. With two in his hands, he is able to reduce the weight of his setup from 7 lbs to 3 lbs, and also transferring most of that weight from his pack to his hands. Erik, like Hearken, had a great idea that seemed within reason. Both very smart guys, they both also lacked experience working with the materials. When we put our heads together and worked on these projects, they came together elegantly, efficiently, and on the first time too.
Working with metal is definitely an art form, it takes time and patience and lots of practice. It's too bad that technical and trade skills aren't emphasized nearly enough in today's society. A generation or two ago, everybody had exposure to auto shop, welding, and metal shop while they were in high school. The focus of public education today has shifted from learning things you can make a living with, to being effective standardized test takers. Where DOES one go to learn a trade like this? Even better, where does one have a place to go to learn such a trade, free of restrictions of teachers, of bosses breathing down your neck? At 23b, there's only one catch: you have to deal with Goons in their natural habitat.
20120602
Mobile club graphic tool BMP2HEX
I built an Excel 2010 spreadsheet* that turns pixels into hex code in the right format to feed the Mobile Club its images. You can use it to make 224x8 frames for the mobile club LED display!
Put a 1 (or any character) in a cell to turn on that pixel. Clear the cell (or put a 0) to turn off that pixel. It makes a magical hexadecimal string!
Copy the hex string out and send it to us at 23bshop@gmail.com, and we will write it in 400-mile-high letters of flame on the top of Mount Olympus!**
Here's a link to the spreadsheet:
http://www.filehosting.org/file/details/348880/bmp2hex.xlsx
*This is a very primitive tool written with what's at hand. No warranty. Flames will shoot out of your computer and I don't care.
**No we will not. We might display it on the scrolling message sign on the club though.
Put a 1 (or any character) in a cell to turn on that pixel. Clear the cell (or put a 0) to turn off that pixel. It makes a magical hexadecimal string!
Copy the hex string out and send it to us at 23bshop@gmail.com, and we will write it in 400-mile-high letters of flame on the top of Mount Olympus!**
Here's a link to the spreadsheet:
http://www.filehosting.org/file/details/348880/bmp2hex.xlsx
*This is a very primitive tool written with what's at hand. No warranty. Flames will shoot out of your computer and I don't care.
**No we will not. We might display it on the scrolling message sign on the club though.
20120211
Cameraphone Tripod GET!
This is a mini tripod with a cameraphone adapter to maximize the quality of your cell phone videos and snapshots, and make it easier to capture anything you like in pics or video, even if you didn't bring your bigger better camera.
This one will reside here in the 23b Shop, enriching the lives of all who it touches, like a magical sunshine blessing of rainbow sparkle flowers and tickly pony feathers from angel unicorns.
The mini tripod came from our Purgatory Bin. You can use any tripod with a standard 1/4-20 thread, or make your own genius type construction with a 1/4-20 bolt to hold a camera or phone in place anywhere.
The cameraphone adaptor is made from a scrap of Lexan polycarbonate sheet. (This specific scrap was from a racecar windshield which was cut out in the shop this one time.) The scrap was band saw cut, and the edges and corners were sanded smooth. A
heat gun was used at 450C to bend the scrap into a U over a metal bar.
A spot
was then heated in the center of the bend and a 1/4-20 nut (to engage the tripod bolt) was pushed
into the Lexan. I attached the nut to a 2" bolt to push against the table edge. The nut was glued in place and
aligned by moving the bolt head. A bit of soft wax like chapstick rubbed into
the bolt threads prevented the glue from sticking to them.
The bolt was then removed and a hole was made through the plastic for the tripod bolt.
| |
The square hole was beveled with a high speed rotary carbide tip and filed smooth to fit the keys on the Android phone.
The neoprene pad glued in place keeps the phone snug in any orientation.
|
| Shoots video or pictures from directly over your project |
| Captures drawings accurately and easily, with the phone completely flat to the table |
| Captures a class, event, or session on video |
| Make a electric postcard for your Mom! |
20120117
Trip to Luky's Hardware in Burbank, CA

Today I was up in Burbank for work, and decided to check out a place I had heard about but never visited. It's called Luky's Hardware, and it is a veritable Aladdin's cave of fasteners, fittings, hoses, electronics and aerospace-related bits.
Check out the inside:

Most of the place looks like this - bin after bin of aircraft rivets, stainless nuts and bolts, hydraulic actuators, aircraft gauges.


They also have a nice selection of large o-rings, huge bins of stainless hydraulic lines, and lots of of miscellaneous stuff, such as a whole box of photomultiplier tubes sitting out on the sidewalk.
Check it out if you're in the area:
Luky's Hardware
3814 West Burbank Blvd.
Burbank, CA 91505
(818) 845-8338
20111221
New toys at the shop

Happy holidays, everybody!
23b got a Christmas present a little early. We now have updated manufacturing capability as the proud new owners of an [antique] Bridgeport mill. There's a motorcycle shop down the street from our unit that had some equipment no longer needed, so it's ours now. This is a 1955 Bridgeport M-head round ram mill, pretty much the last of its kind before switching to a dovetail ram. It's about 2/3 the size of a more modern Series 1 mill, which works out perfectly for our limited footprint at the shop. The electrical was hooked up today, thanks to Queeg, Dano and Arclight. Hopefully by the 1st of the year, we should be cutting chips. Combined with our lathe and welders, we are now your one-stop-shop for the upcoming zombie apocalypse in 2012.
20111205
23b Shop December Hacker Potluck = Saturday, December 17th
23b Shop's December Hacker Potluck will be on Saturday, December 17th at 6pm.
https://www.facebook.com/events/137401679689703/
Feel free to bring a friend and go ahead and bring some Christmas, Channukkah, or Kwanzaa themed food to share. Of course, you can bring nondenominational, agnostic, or atheist food as well, as desired.
20111106
Homebrew and filthy german trannies.
Progress on the M.A.M.E. cabinet enclosure is steady, there is now a relatively complete mockup with a footprint of 8"x16". Harald bottled his brown porter after sitting in the back for a few weeks, and instantly got to brewing another batch.
Meanwhile, at Queeg's secret lair, he wrestled with the greasy german tranny. Once it broke loose from the chains, we had to scramble to make sure it wouldn't run away on us. It did get a suckerpunch on Queeg's face, though.
20111018
20111017
Bicycle lighting hack
So a while back, I got a Sturmey Archer XL-FDD hub with a dynamo with a listed output of 6 VAC at 500 mA (for 3 watts of power). I was eyeballing this unit for quite some time because of the huge drum brake incorporated in the unit. Once it arrived, I was puzzled to find that there was no instructions inside the box whatsoever. A brief email to Sturmey Archer yeilded the response, "Youre on your own, kid!" Cool.
I opened up the dynamo side of the hub looking for a zener diode to clip, which would de-limit the output of the dynamo. The output of a dyno hub is typically regulated at the above specs so it wont overpower an old filament bulb. Since I have something a little more powerful in mind, like some power LEDs, it would be useful to bump up the output and rectify the current. I was suspicious that half of the wave was being clipped, as the light just didn't seem quite as bright.
So once I hook a multimeter up to it, something suprising showed up. It turns out the specs are a lie! In the parking lot here I was able to acheive 14VAC at about 20 mph. Okay, that saves me one step and some trouble.
So the light I am using is a triple LED mounted in an MR16 housing (the kind found in most track lighting as a halogen bulb) with a rating of 12V AC/DC @ 7 watts. Two years ago it cost me about $20. Hooking it up to a power supply at 12V reads 360mA, or ~4.5 W. There is obviously some internal regulation happening inside the housing, and a quick inspection confirmed a SMT LED driver in the case.
I had the lamp in a housing using it as room lighting beforehand, and it was very bright. Early in the morning when I had the light connected directly to the dynamo, it reached peak brightness at about 15 MPH. I was not satisfied with the light output under AC current, which is what led me to build the bridge rectifier.
In the first iteration as a pure bridge rectifier, the output was ~16V. Cool! Adding some 1000mF electrolytic caps to the mix pushed the voltage up over 20. Im not entirely sure that would be bad for the LED, but I'd rather not take the chance. I found a suitable voltage regulator and after installing it at, now the hub seems to be stable at 12.2V
I tried a couple different arrangements of Caps (series, parallel, series and parallel, before and after the regulator). Guessing, I settled on two in parallel after the regulator so I dont push the specs on the caps, which are rated for 25V. I'll let you know the subjective results tonight once it gets dark.
Hub dynamo regulation circuit ideas

I opened up the dynamo side of the hub looking for a zener diode to clip, which would de-limit the output of the dynamo. The output of a dyno hub is typically regulated at the above specs so it wont overpower an old filament bulb. Since I have something a little more powerful in mind, like some power LEDs, it would be useful to bump up the output and rectify the current. I was suspicious that half of the wave was being clipped, as the light just didn't seem quite as bright.
So once I hook a multimeter up to it, something suprising showed up. It turns out the specs are a lie! In the parking lot here I was able to acheive 14VAC at about 20 mph. Okay, that saves me one step and some trouble.
So the light I am using is a triple LED mounted in an MR16 housing (the kind found in most track lighting as a halogen bulb) with a rating of 12V AC/DC @ 7 watts. Two years ago it cost me about $20. Hooking it up to a power supply at 12V reads 360mA, or ~4.5 W. There is obviously some internal regulation happening inside the housing, and a quick inspection confirmed a SMT LED driver in the case.
I had the lamp in a housing using it as room lighting beforehand, and it was very bright. Early in the morning when I had the light connected directly to the dynamo, it reached peak brightness at about 15 MPH. I was not satisfied with the light output under AC current, which is what led me to build the bridge rectifier.
In the first iteration as a pure bridge rectifier, the output was ~16V. Cool! Adding some 1000mF electrolytic caps to the mix pushed the voltage up over 20. Im not entirely sure that would be bad for the LED, but I'd rather not take the chance. I found a suitable voltage regulator and after installing it at, now the hub seems to be stable at 12.2V
I tried a couple different arrangements of Caps (series, parallel, series and parallel, before and after the regulator). Guessing, I settled on two in parallel after the regulator so I dont push the specs on the caps, which are rated for 25V. I'll let you know the subjective results tonight once it gets dark.
Hub dynamo regulation circuit ideas
20111010
Popular Mechanics article
Popular Mechanics - RedBull Creation Contest
...so i haven't gotten a look at the paper copy yet, but Redbull Creation got a writeup in the November issue of Popular Mechanics and that means we might be in there, in tiny gray print, possibly under a bunch of other people.
Thought you should know.
Friday Update! There's a nice 4 page article but they don't seem to mention us. The barest corner of our see saw is visible in the background of the Donner Party photo. Not that I looked.
...so i haven't gotten a look at the paper copy yet, but Redbull Creation got a writeup in the November issue of Popular Mechanics and that means we might be in there, in tiny gray print, possibly under a bunch of other people.
Thought you should know.
Friday Update! There's a nice 4 page article but they don't seem to mention us. The barest corner of our see saw is visible in the background of the Donner Party photo. Not that I looked.
23b Hacker Potluck on Saturday, Oct 15!
Reminder:
Hacker Potluck is this Saturday, October 15, at 6pm.
Bring a dish to share, and invite a friend!
Next potlucks are scheduled for:
Saturday, November 19, 6pm
Saturday, December 17, 6pm
See you there.
Hacker Potluck is this Saturday, October 15, at 6pm.
Bring a dish to share, and invite a friend!
Next potlucks are scheduled for:
Saturday, November 19, 6pm
Saturday, December 17, 6pm
See you there.
20110927
Plug computing
This week, I decided to take some time to finally get the Plug Computer I purchased about 6 months ago set up.
In case you haven't seen it, Plug Computers are tiny embedded servers that are usually about the size of a normal wall wart or power supply. We got a Sheevaplug dev kit from Globalscale Technology and gave it a go.
After quite a few false starts, we got ArmedSlack Linux installed and it has now replaced our old eeepc as one of the shop servers. Check out the new equipment cabinet, now with cooling:

The plug computer is the white thing on top, with the blue 23b sticker. If you'd like to set up a Sheevaplug for your DVR, monitoring server or whatever, we've documented everything here:
http://code.google.com/p/open-access-control/wiki/LinuxMonitoring
Arclight
In case you haven't seen it, Plug Computers are tiny embedded servers that are usually about the size of a normal wall wart or power supply. We got a Sheevaplug dev kit from Globalscale Technology and gave it a go.
After quite a few false starts, we got ArmedSlack Linux installed and it has now replaced our old eeepc as one of the shop servers. Check out the new equipment cabinet, now with cooling:

The plug computer is the white thing on top, with the blue 23b sticker. If you'd like to set up a Sheevaplug for your DVR, monitoring server or whatever, we've documented everything here:
http://code.google.com/p/open-access-control/wiki/LinuxMonitoring
Arclight
20110916
Welder Interface Board
So we have a new project going on at 23b. We really wanted to be able to do Aluminum MIG welding with our kick-ass Lincoln C300. Unfortunately, the accessories for this (either a spool gun or push-pull gun) start at around $1200. Last week, I picked up a Miller Spoolmatic 1 for $200 on a web forum, and we're now in the process of building an interface for it.
First off, we needed to get the manual for it. Fortunately, the Lincoln manual already had the pin-outs for its accessory connector, and Miller is very good about letting you download their old service manuals.
From the manuals, it appeared that the Spoolmatic needs a 35V DC power supply, a realy, and a simple RC circuit to provide a power-on delay for the motor. The Lincoln seems to just need triggering, which we can do with a second set of relay contacts.
The next problem was finding the right MIL-SPEC connectors. The one on the Miller was a 4-pin AMP, and I was able to locate this fairly quickly on Digikey, as most of these are type 97. FYI, the female pin part is:
AMP#97-3102A-18-4S
The 12-pin Lincoln connector was a little harder to track down, but I made a guess that it's also an AMP and found it as:
AMP#PT06A-14-12P(SR)
Next, I made a quick board layout in Eagle CAD and etched a board using Fab in a Box and a laser printer:




And here it is stuffed:


So far, I've got it activating the welder and spool gun. The next step is to see why it isn't auto-sensing spool gun vs. MIG gun. But this isn't bad for one evening of progress.
Arclight
First off, we needed to get the manual for it. Fortunately, the Lincoln manual already had the pin-outs for its accessory connector, and Miller is very good about letting you download their old service manuals.
From the manuals, it appeared that the Spoolmatic needs a 35V DC power supply, a realy, and a simple RC circuit to provide a power-on delay for the motor. The Lincoln seems to just need triggering, which we can do with a second set of relay contacts.
The next problem was finding the right MIL-SPEC connectors. The one on the Miller was a 4-pin AMP, and I was able to locate this fairly quickly on Digikey, as most of these are type 97. FYI, the female pin part is:
AMP#97-3102A-18-4S
The 12-pin Lincoln connector was a little harder to track down, but I made a guess that it's also an AMP and found it as:
AMP#PT06A-14-12P(SR)
Next, I made a quick board layout in Eagle CAD and etched a board using Fab in a Box and a laser printer:




And here it is stuffed:


So far, I've got it activating the welder and spool gun. The next step is to see why it isn't auto-sensing spool gun vs. MIG gun. But this isn't bad for one evening of progress.
Arclight
20110915
23b SoCal Hacker Potluck 9/24
23b SoCal Hacker Potluck 9/24
Saturday, September 24 · 6:00pm - 11:37pm
418 E Commonwealth, Fullerton, CA (behind Pizza Hut and the theater)
Open invite! Bring a geeky friend
Saturday, September 24 · 6:00pm - 11:37pm
418 E Commonwealth, Fullerton, CA (behind Pizza Hut and the theater)
Open invite! Bring a geeky friend
20110821
Hacker Pot Luck - Saturday, 8/27
In case you haven't been following the calendar, the monthly Hacker Pot Luck is going on this Saturday. Of special interest is the new welder that we just got in, thanks to the nice folks at Lincoln Electric.
Details are below:
Time
Saturday, August 27th · 7:00pm
Location
23b Shop
418 E Commonwealth Ave #1
Fullerton, California
Join us for the next Hacker Potluck at the 23b Shop. Saturday 7/23,
7pm.
Open invite, feel free to tell a friend. It's a potluck, you know the
deal by now, yes?
Congratulate us on our recent win, and check out our new welder. Get
there early (any time after 3:00pm) , and we'll be doing a welding
lesson.
Details are below:
Time
Saturday, August 27th · 7:00pm
Location
23b Shop
418 E Commonwealth Ave #1
Fullerton, California
Join us for the next Hacker Potluck at the 23b Shop. Saturday 7/23,
7pm.
Open invite, feel free to tell a friend. It's a potluck, you know the
deal by now, yes?
Congratulate us on our recent win, and check out our new welder. Get
there early (any time after 3:00pm) , and we'll be doing a welding
lesson.
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